Christmas at the Mill

Always a fun place to visit, the Willamette Heritage Center and Thomas Kay Woolen Mill is a microcosm of Oregon history: fourteen historic structures dot the five-acre grounds, which are dominated by the venerable mill and bisected by the old mill race. But for a few magical nights every year, the mill and grounds come alive with thousands of lights, living history demonstrations, musical performances, and even a visit from Santa. 

Come early; this event is only open from 5:30 to 8:00, and there is a lot to explore. The first, most obvious attraction: light displays decorate the entire 5-acre property. Allow plenty of time to wander and take photographs among thousands of Christmas lights. 

Then there is the history. By far the largest building on the property, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill dates from 1889. Two floors of exhibits and equipment show how the mill produced its fine fabrics using the water flowing in  Mill Creek. During the Magic evenings, volunteers in period dress are at hand to answer questions and explain the use of the still-impressive machines used to clean, card, spin, and weave the wool from Willamette Valley sheep (keep a sharp eye out when exploring around the building's exterior and you might find the old crown gear, still spinning above the rushing waters of the mill race). The three-story mill building is festively decorated with white lights for the holidays.

Besides the mill, you will find three of the oldest frame houses in the Northwest, as well as an 1858 church building. These buildings were moved to the Heritage Center in order to preserve them and their history (unfortunately, the houses are closed to the public during Magic at the Mill). You will also find the Metzger Machine Shop and a 1909 wooden railroad caboose that will eventually be part of a railroad history exhibit. You may also find living history demonstrations, such as blacksmithing and handweaving, and you might be lucky enough to catch a musical performance in the old church building.

Beyond the lights and the history, you will find a market featuring local vendors, a model train display, children's activities, and, of course, Santa!

We at Casing Oregon usually aim for activities that are free or low-cost, and we try to avoid fuss, limited tickets, and time constraints. We do allow the occasional exception, though, and Magic at the Mill is one of them. This one requires planning, so check the website and choose your night; opening right after Thanksgiving, the event offers 1,000 tickets per night. The more spontaneous can still check at the door for possible leftover tickets, but purchase ahead online if you prefer certainty. 

A visit to Magic at the Mill has become a holiday tradition for many families. Bundle up, wear your boots, be ready for rain, and come explore a bit of Oregon's history seasoned with holiday merriment. It just might become a tradition for your family, as well!

 

In we go!

 

Yes, that's a turbine. Decorated with Christmas lights. Any questions?

Mill race, complete with light-up fish

Heading inside

Merry Christmas!

An Alpine Gem: Hosmer Lake

The crystalline pools of Hosmer Lake lie in an eastside forest just off of the Cascade Lakes Highway outside of Bend. This unique lake is already so popular that we hesitate to share it, but its diversity and beauty make it a must-see for paddlers of all skill levels. There are also trails for non-boaters to enjoy the area, but to truly experience Hosmer one needs to take to the water.

Originally known by the uninspiring name of "Mud Lake," wildlife-rich Hosmer was appropriately renamed in honor of a local naturalist. Famous for its peaceful setting and spectacular views, this beginner-friendly lake is only open to electric motors and non-motorized craft. At just under 5000' elevation, access is often blocked by snow until June, and snow will close it again in October. 

Arrive early. Come mid-week if you can. The small, potholed parking area is often jam-packed, and it only gets worse as the day goes on. Looking at the parking lot you would think there wouldn't be an inch of space left on the lake, but once on the water there is plenty of room for everyone to set out and explore, birdwatch, or flyfish. This lake is known for its rainbows, its brookies, and... its Atlantic salmon. These were brought in during the 1950s, and they have flourished in their western mountain home. With an average depth of around 3 feet, Hosmer is a prime breeding ground for water insects, so it grows big, healthy fish. This special fishery is flyfishing-only, using barbless hooks, and it's catch-and-release for all species. Be sure to check current regulations at the time of your visit if you plan to fish.

Find your parking spot, pay the fee or display your Northwest Forest Pass, and put in at the boat ramp. The first pool, fringed with bulrushes, seems small and maybe not worth the drive after all; in fact, the entire lake is less than 200 acres. But paddle out into this pool and you will find views of Mt. Bachelor, South Sister, and Broken Top over the lake. Now you're starting to see why you came. Watch in the rushes for shy waterfowl as you explore the perimeter. These rushes shape our experience of the lake; look at a map of Hosmer and it seems much wider and more open than the wandering, creek-like shape seen from a boat.

Now continue into a channel thickly lined with rushes and water plants. Look down into the crystal-clear water; this channel has a slight current, and the fish love it here. Watch them swim and dart after insects as you wind toward the place where the reeds open into pool number two. The water here is shallow, with an exquisite pale-green tint. This is a favorite area for osprey; watch them dive for fish in the clear water. There are some small islands in this pool, and wildlife frequent the lakeshore. Anglers try their luck near the channel, and indeed throughout this entire pool. 

Pool number three is small, almost a pond, shallowing out into a large wetland and moist meadow that stretches northward. This is a good area to watch for birds and other wildlife; you may even be lucky enough to spot an otter or sandhill crane. Those wanting a longer paddle can look along the north end for where Quinn Creek empties into the lake. Head upstream for a ways and watch for a pullout on river left (the right side when going upstream). From here a short hike leads to a small "waterfall" (actually a cascade)  in the creek. Return to your boat and ride the slight current back into the lake. 

Two campgrounds offer simple accommodations at the south end of the lake, South Campground and Mallard Marsh. Most of the sites are reservable, with a few first-come-first-served. It's well worth reserving a spot if you can fit an overnight stay into your itinerary; once the day visitors have left, peace settles over the still waters and the glow of the setting sun touches the mountains. Bring mosquito repellant.

Hosmer is best reached from the town of Bend. Head toward Mt. Bachelor on Century Drive/Highway 46/Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. You will pass Sparks Lake with its stellar birdwatching and interesting lava formations, then a curve in the highway embraces ice-cold, pale blue Devil's Lake. Pass the turnoff for Elk Lake Resort and turn left on Road 4625 to find Hosmer.

This is not the best lake for swimming (remember the original name of  "Mud Lake"), but neighboring Elk Lake offers swimming, as well as motorized boating, campgrounds, and a resort. There are countless miles of hiking trails in the area, but their use is limited by a permit system. Trails outside the wilderness boundary are open to everyone, however, including the trails near Sparks and Elk Lakes. 

This entire area gets heavy use, but for good reason. Don't be put off by permits and parking issues; take a drive to the drier side of the Cascades and explore Hosmer Lake. Maybe bring a kayak or a fishing pole, perhaps binoculars or your hiking boots. But definitely bring a camera. You will be using it.

 

 

Pool one

 

 

 

South Sister, Broken Top, and Mt. Bachelor

Into the channel

Pool two

Hidden at the far end of pool two, the small channel to pool three

Quinn Creek

As always, see you on the water!

 

Finding Oregon's Roots: Lincoln and Spong's Landing (A Tale of Two Ferries)

The fertile Willamette valley spreads itself on either side of the river that gives it its name. This waterway is the lifeblood of the valley, and in pioneer days, in a land with no highways it was the highway. In a land with few bridges, ferries provided the needed links for transportation. These sometimes-primitive craft were built and operated by enterprising frontiersmen all up and down the river. Some remain today as merely names, a very few still operate, but for the most part their histories have disappeared into the brushy riverbanks.

Doak's Landing

In the 1840s, Andrew Doak began a ferry service from the west bank of the Willamette, later selling his business to Jesse Walling, who platted a town. The fledgling community was spared in the great flood of 1861, and under Lewis Abrams, Walling's successor, the town flourished, mainly due to the fertile soil and numerous wheatfields throughout the area. In its day, Lincoln was the place to be in the central valley; known as "The Metropolis of Wheat," the town shipped 350,000 bushels of wheat one year, a record only exceeded by the downriver town of Portland. An apple orchard once stood here, and purchasers of lots in the new town were allowed to claim the apple trees that were being removed. Five large warehouses were built to hold the wheat prior to shipping, and Lincoln also boasted mills, a blacksmith, a lodge hall, a church, a school, and a store and shops to serve the surrounding area. 

Spong's Landing

Meanwhile, the Spong family settled on the opposite riverbank. They now owned the eastern ferry landing. Captain John M. Spong used the landing to convey supplies by boat; he also began his own ferry business. The competing ferry operators then withheld permission for the other ferry to land on their side of the river. A period of ill-will ensued, possibly including some shots fired, but there were no reported injuries. Eventually Abrams backed down and discontinued his ferry business. Spong's Ferry continued to run back and forth across the river until bridges were built and it was no longer needed.

The town of Lincoln continued to prosper under Abrams' competent management; in its heyday, it stretched for half a mile along the waterfront. Then the railroad came in the late 1870s and early 1880s, but not to Lincoln. One by one, businesses began to fade. When Lewis Abram died in 1905, the new owners of his businesses did not prosper. Then the buildings burned. Today, there is very little evidence left of what was once the Metropolis of Wheat.

Side branch of the Willamette

Lying a little north of modern west Salem, Lincoln is now a crossroads on Highway 221 heading toward Dayton. Stop at the small store for ice cream and savor it under tall trees. Look across the highway for a sign reading "Doaks Lincoln" and briefly follow a small road. Turn right at the T to find a small parking lot; this is part of the Willamette River Greenway, but there is no trace of Lincoln. Following the path to the river, though, you will note the "shelves" in the riverbank; the Willamette often arranges its banks this way, allowing for easy waterfront development in the early days. Warehouses and wharves lined the lower shelf, with housing built on the shelves above. Once at the rocky edge of the river, look across the water to see where the ferry stopped at Spong's Landing. Return to the road and check out the other side of the T; the path here leads to a small side branch of the Willamette. Poke around "town" a little and you will find a couple of old houses among the newer ones, but that is all of Lincoln that remains. 

Spong's Landing is now a popular county park outside of Keizer. To find it, follow Chemawa Road from I-5 through Keizer to Windsor Island Road; turn right, then after about a mile turn left on Naples Street to 22nd Avenue. There is a $5 parking fee, but there is plenty to do here. Open fields invite a game of frisbee, and a playground structure is popular with the kids. Follow the path toward the river and you will find riverbank "shelves" on this side, as well. The lowest shelf offers river access, with a little beach and a popular fishing area; it's easy to see that a ferry could have landed at this spot. Look across the river and you will see the ferry's destination on the Lincoln side. 

On the second shelf, you will find a lovely picnic area under tall trees, complete with a charcoal grill and a river view. Wander through the trees and meadow to find a variety of songbirds. Look for a hiking trail to loop through a lush woodland, with wildflowers in season, wetlands, and more birds. A couple of picnic shelters are available if the weather turns all Oregon, and restrooms and horseshoe pits are provided.

Spong's Landing and Lincoln are fun to visit, but most of the history here lives only in our imaginations now. It's hard to picture the days gone by, with the Spong family running the wheat harvest across the river in their ferry and Lincoln bustling with commerce for half a mile along the bank. Gone are the folks whose vision first provided grain and jobs from the open land beside the Willamette. But standing on the lower bank where the ferry was loaded, looking across the wide, strong river to the rocky shore where it was unloaded, there is still an echo of old Oregon. There is still a trace of where we've been. These ferries, at least, will be remembered.

 

Trail to the river in Lincoln

 

Spong's Landing from Lincoln

Lincoln from Spong's Landing

Spong's Landing Park

Remnants of... something

Trillium

Trail Access

Some of the information in this article came from Willamette Landings: Ghost Towns of the River by Howard McKinley Corning, first published in 1947 but reprinted multiple times. We highly recommend this book as a resource for lesser-known information on Oregon's history.