Not many vacationers take Highway 34, the wickedly contorted route from Philomath to Waldport. When traveling to that section of the coast, it usually saves time to detour through Newport or Florence. Those who choose one of the quicker routes might miss one of Waldport's best-kept secrets, though: peaceful, accessible Eckman Lake.
This lovely little lake actually started out as a slough of Alsea Bay; its connection to bigger water was mostly blocked by the construction of the highway dike. Its water is fresh, fed by Eckman Creek at its south end. The lake is easy to find without braving Highway 34; it's only a couple of miles inland from Highway 101. Turn east at Waldport's only stop light. As you leave town, you'll pass over Lint Slough, a very tidal finger of Alsea Bay that is popular with birds and paddlers. Follow 34 along the bay to a
small park on the right; here you will find picnic tables, a vault toilet, and a fishing dock. The dock itself is accessed by a ramp and is barrier-free, but a short stretch of lumpy lawn must be crossed to reach it.
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| The Steere family navigates the shallow southern end of the lake |
Estimates of the lake's size vary from 45 to 59 acres. This puzzling fact may be partly due to variable water levels, and it may also depend on what one considers to be part of the lake. While the northern end along the highway is as deep as nine or ten feet, the rest of the lake is quite shallow, and the entire southern end is a non-navigable wetland.
In any case, this unassuming lake has much to offer vacationers who need a quiet spot to stop and relax. Fishing is popular here, from the dock, the roadside, and small boats. ODFW stocks it with rainbow trout, and the occasional cutthroat makes an appearance, as well. There are also rumors of coho salmon and good-sized bass being caught in these shallow waters.
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| The author in a small sailing craft |
Human-powered boats may be hand launched from the park or from a pullout across the lake. Hand-launching is a must, as there is no real boat ramp. This is a great place to row or paddle, as the lake is somewhat more wind-sheltered than the bay, plus it is too shallow to be practical for motor craft. Small-boat sailing is fun here, too, but only in the deeper areas, and a kick-up rudder is highly recommended. Overall, this is one of the best spots we know for learning new skills or trying out new boats; the shallow water, sheltered location, and adjacent roadways make for easy rescues if they should be needed. It's an especially good place to teach children boating and fishing skills in a protected environment.
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| The ever-present osprey nest |
Wildlife enjoy Eckman Lake, too, and it's a popular spot for birders, especially in the winter months. Anyone with binoculars can birdwatch here; there are several pullouts along the lakeside roads. A perennial fixture, the osprey nest on a power pole in the lake hosts baby osprey every year. Grebes, coots, cormorants, Canada geese, and a variety of ducks are also common here. Egrets and great blue herons wade in the shallows, and sandpipers can often be found along the shore. Keep an eye out for
nutrias and
muskrats, and if the lake has been recently stocked with trout, you may find river otters. If you look down into the water you are likely to find yourself face-to-face with the ubiquitous western newt; just make certain that the kids wash their hands after playing with these docile water dogs, as they do carry a toxin on their skin that should not be ingested.
There are larger, deeper lakes on the Oregon coast. Wide, scenic, and wind-scoured, they host jet skis, powerboats, and large sailboats. They offer more extensive exploration, fancier amenities, and, possibly, more exciting fishing. For a few hours of relaxation with kids, fishing poles, snacks, and/or small boats, though, give us Eckman Lake. Stop and join us on your next trip to the central coast.
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| A rare "lumpy water" day on the lake. Photo credit: Jaime Steere |
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| The shallow areas of the lake are perfect for practicing new skills, such as learning to balance on a stand-up paddleboard... |
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| ...or sail... |
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| ... or perhaps learning to pole a canoe. |
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| Alternatively, you can feel free to keep things simple and just enjoy the ride. |
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| We'll see you out there, whatever you take! |
Tucked away just off of busy Foster Road in eastside Portland, Leach Botanical Garden is a name familiar to professional horticulturists and weekend gardeners alike. In the 1800s this 16-acre plot was part of Jacob Johnson's land claim, and the creek bearing his name still twists and flows for 26 miles from the town of Boring, through Gresham and Portland, and into the Willamette. In the 1930s John Leach, a pharmacist, and his wife Lilla, a botanist, purchased four-and-a-half acres beside the creek. They first built a picturesque stone summer cabin near the stream, then a stately home on the hill above. Lovingly planted and landscaped, the property remained under the couple's care until John's death in 1972. Now open to the public six days a week, Leach Botanical Garden is supported by Leach Garden Friends, Portland Parks, and a small army of devoted volunteers.
There are two routes to the garden. I will refer to them as the Romantic Route and the Practical Route. To find the former, follow Foster Road east (easily accessed from I-205) and turn south on 110th Drive/112th Avenue to Flavel Street. Turn left on Flavel and begin a roller-coaster drive, turning left on 122nd and following it to a parking lot next to Johnson Creek (at this writing, the street bridge is closed to cars but open to pedestrians; repairs are planned for this summer). The advantage of this approach is the lovely creekside walk toward the old manor house, the route taken by the Leaches when they returned home from one of their many adventures. It is also the only wheelchair-accessible route; unfortunately, this hillside garden can only offer accessibility around the manor house and East Terrace. For the Practical Route, take Foster to 122nd, turn south, and turn left at the garden's offices. You will find a small, graveled parking lot with an entrance kiosk. The advantages here are the simpler route and, usually, more open parking spaces.
Whether you start at the Practical side and work your way downhill or start at the Romantic side and work your way up, plan to spend plenty of time in this beautiful, informative, and varied garden. We will begin near the Romantic Route's parking area, down beside Johnson Creek. The first thing you will notice is that there is no entrance fee. There isn't even a parking fee. This unique and delightful garden is absolutely free (but please do make a donation to support the work here!). 
From the parking lot, cross the creek and take a pathway to the right to access the riparian area. Here you will find an amazing variety of ferns, some of which you may never have seen before. Many of the plants throughout the garden are labeled; if you are a gardener you may wish to bring a notepad as you are bound to find plants you can't live without! Here you will also notice the first of many specimen trees scattered throughout the property. Peek under the leathery, heart-shaped leaves of wild ginger to find its hidden, spurred flowers. Cross the footbridge into a wilder part of the forest. Wander the pathway among native wildflowers under the forest canopy until you discover the Leach's stone cabin, as well as an outdoor kitchen that they used during their stays here. Sharp eyes will find chunks of petrified wood in the cabin's walls and the fireplace.
Back at the manor house, you will find a selection of plants for sale as well as an excellent gift shop staffed with friendly volunteers. The plantings are especially lovely here, and stone troughs house alpine plants. On the other side of the house is a wide stone terrace which has witnessed many a wedding. Climb a path to the back of the house to find a microclimate beside the gift shop's roof where cacti sprawl contentedly in the sheltered sunlight. Also behind the house is an exceptional rock garden showcasing a collection of lewisias along with other plants well-suited to the rugged, well-drained conditions. 
From here you will encounter a complicated web of paths; in fact, the trails in this relatively small acreage total about a mile! Look at the map to figure out which areas to visit. This entire upper area is typical northwest forest, but with a twist. Familiar vine maples grow above exotic hellebores. Common vanilla leaf and false lily-of-the-valley grow side-by-side with epimediums from China. Skillfully curated and beautifully planted, this ordinary-looking evergreen grove reveals surprise after surprise. If you normally wouldn't hurry to view a collection of barberry specimens, think again and check out area #4 on the map. Podophyllums from China and the Himalayas loom above nandinas, epimediums, and yes, Oregon grape, all members of this widely varied family. 
This upper area is home to a collection of venerable rhododendrons and camellias, some of which look more like trees than bushes. Look for the shrub labeled, "camellia sinensis;" this woody plant is, in fact, tea, which is not found in most American gardens! You may also notice numerous large chunks of downed tree trunks; an unavoidable by-product of aging trees, many of these will be left to decay naturally and return to the forest floor.
At the very top of the garden you will find nursery beds, a meadow, and a children's garden with interesting and unusual plants. We decided that childhood is relative and went in to examine the collection of pitcher plants. The gate to the Practical parking lot is also in this area.
