The Other Side of Sand Lake: Sitka Sedge

Lying north of Pacific City, the Sand Lake area offers a wide variety of activities for visitors: ATV enthusiasts ride the dunes on the north side, and campers and paddlers watch the tide fill and empty the "lake" at Whalen Island. The newest section, Sitka Sedge State Natural Area, opened in 2018, giving hikers and birders access to the southern part of this varied land of forests, mud flats, wetlands, and dunes. 

Once home to part of the Tillamook tribe, this boggy land was later farmed for many years until someone decided that it would make an excellent golf course. The idea eventually dissolved, though, and the land was eventually purchased by the state of Oregon.

This hike is in the 244 acres lying west of Sand Lake Road. The parking lot is somewhat nondescript, and it's easy to drive right by, but it offers restrooms and good signage (cell service is limited here, so you might want to download the trail map ahead of time, or just snap a picture of the sign). You will note that parts of the beach are closed for the snowy plover nesting season, but don't be dissuaded if you happen to be hiking during those times; there is plenty to see here any time of year.

Begin by hiking the half-mile ADA accessible section. This alone is worth a quick stop; the trail passes along a dike built in the 1920s that closed out the tide and allowed Farmer Beltz to graze cattle here. The dike is slowly deteriorating, though, which permits some water to sneak through and makes for excellent birdwatching; the richly varied wetlands on the left contrast vividly with the tidal flats on the right. Watch for salal and evergreen huckleberries in season, as well as wild roses, which flourish here.

Swing right and follow the edge of Sand Lake; from here, there are two loops to hike. Turn right at an intersection to follow the Estuary View Trail, within earshot of the growl and purr of the ATVs scrambling over the dunes to the north. The path passes through lush coastal forest until it reaches a viewpoint over Sand Lake. At low tide, you will see mudflats with a few channels, but at high tide water fills the basin. This rich estuary is popular with herons, egrets, kingfishers, and ospreys, as well as boaters. Crabs, flounders, and sand shrimp populate the muddy sand, and schools of fish follow the tide in search of food. Continue along the loop, where a side trail on the right leads to a beach of Sand Lake (part of this is closed seasonally for the plovers, with clear signage to denote those areas). Now the trail heads south through a forest of shore pine and Sitka spruce, paralleling the Pacific. An informal trail over a foredune offers a view of the ocean beach, with Cape Lookout to the north and Haystack Rock to the south. 

Kinnikinnik

The trail junctions in this area can be a bit confusing, but a left turn is a tie trail that completes this part of the loop, leading back to the dike and parking lot. To continue the hike, resume heading south along the sandy forest trail of the Kinnikinnik Woods Loop. This section runs closer to the beach, and a short trail on the right leads to the ocean sands. Head south a little further and follow the trail as it swings to the left; if you go straight at this point, you will reach the beach again further south. This is actually part of the Oregon Coast Trail on its way through Tierra del Mar to Cape Kiwanda.

Loop back northward on the Kinnikinnik Trail and watch on your right for Elk Knoll, a small rise topped with a bench. Pause here to look out over the wetland, home to dozens of species of birds. Then continue through dense forest, keep right at an intersection, and turn right over the dike to return to your car.

All told, the trails officially stretch for 3.5 easy, mostly level miles. This is a great hike for kids, with little climbing and a chance to stop at the beach, as well as the opportunity to customize the length by only walking one of the loops (we recommend the northern Estuary View Loop for its views over Sand Lake). It is also a great stop for folks with mobility limitations who would enjoy a hike through a peaceful wetland; the half-mile trail on the dike is as flat and smooth as a roadway. 

One of Oregon's gems, the Three Capes Scenic Loop provides travelers with stunning views and a wealth of activities. This short hike from a modest parking lot offers a peaceful interlude, a chance to connect with the gentle beauty of sand, estuary, forest, and freshwater wetland. The next time you drive the Loop, leave time to pause and find the south side of Sand Lake.

Beltz Dike

Sand Lake from the Estuary View Loop

One of several beach access points

Kinnikinnik Woods Loop

Elk Knoll

Migratory egrets flocking up for winter

The somewhat confusing intersection of the two loops and a beach access

Back on Beltz Dike

Note the old fence posts from the park's past life

On the Sunny Side: Suttle Lake (And a Bonus)

Just east of the Cascade summit, below the combined highways 20, 22, and 126, a glacier-carved valley holds a beautiful mountain lake. No secret in the communities of Sisters and Bend, this 253-acre lake draws visitors like a magnet, especially in the heat of summer. There is always something to do here, though, and quieter, cooler days mean fewer visitors. Drive about 2 hours from the central Willamette valley and explore one of the highlights of central Oregon, just barely on the sunny side of the mountains.

The lake is named for John Settle, one of the organizers of the Santiam Wagon Road. Settle discovered the lake in 1866 and was rewarded by having his name misspelled when it was recorded. The misspelling remains to this day.

This lake has been protected since 1898. The Forest Service first allowed some development for recreation in the 1920s, and today the area boasts three campgrounds and a resort. 

Driving in, head toward the day use area to find an excellent swimming beach for all ages; this also is a great place to launch kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards (please note that a Northwest Forest Pass or a day-use fee is required). Families hang out here and picnic in the sun, the water spreading out like glass and dotted with folks of all ages floating on whatever they can get to float. But there is another side: when the wind comes up, and this close to the summit it does come up, the water can rise and fling foam like ocean breakers. Not so much fun to swim in, but lovely to watch, and certain bloggers have ridden the chop in their inflatable U-boat (no bloggers were harmed in the making of this article).

While at the day-use area, follow the shore to your right to find a well-maintained trail that encircles the entire lake. This makes a nice, fairly level hike that is also used by anglers and mountain bikers. The path passes through forest, campgrounds, and an area burned in the B and B fire in its 3.6-mile course around the lake.

On the other side of the day-use area lies the resort. A remarkable patchwork of buildings, this facility offers a modern lodge, a tavern, darling little rustic cabins (equipped with Traeger grills but not bathrooms), and a selection of lovely cottages dating from 1925 all the way to nearly-new. You will also find a cafe here, as well as a small shop. Kayaks, canoes, and paddle boards are rented from the boathouse, and the docks in their sheltered cove are a perfect spot to enjoy the lake view. it's worth noting that most of these amenities close for the season in mid to late fall.

Continue driving around the lake to find three excellent campgrounds, each with their own day-use area and boat ramp: South Shore, Blue Bay, and Link Creek. While all three have some lake access, Link Creek is our favorite, with easy boat launching, nice docks, and a lovely creek. This campground even offers a few yurts, and it is open earlier and later than the other two. That being said, all three are great places to camp, boat, fish, and watch wildlife.

After all, it's about the lake: over 250 acres of cool, clear mountain water, up to 75 feet deep. Motorized and non-motorized boating. Water skiing, windsurfing, and now wing foiling. Anglers seek kokanee, brown trout, rainbow trout, and whitefish while whole families bob about on air mattresses. If the weather turns, head to your campsite, where you can relax by the campfire and watch vehicles creep beetle-like along the highway halfway up the hillside opposite. Bird watchers are especially successful on the more sheltered western end; bald eagles, ospreys, loons, goldeneyes, mergansers, and a variety of ducks are found here. Vine maples display their vibrant colors in early fall, making this an excellent time to visit.

All of this would be enough, but for those who like quieter water, there is a bonus: a left turn from the lakeside road leads to Scout Lake, a small gem set in a little basin in a high, sparse forest. Only non-motorized boating is allowed here, and dogs are prohibited; since this popular little lake has no outlet, sanitation is a concern. It is a lovely spot for paddling and photography, and a swimming area with a crumbly pumice beach is popular with kids, although the lake has deep areas, too. The campground here is set in the trees away from the lake, and it only operates until mid-September, but with a Forest Pass or day-use fee you can visit the lake and then head back to your campsite or yurt at Suttle Lake.

Summer may be winding down, but Oregon offers outdoor activities all year long. During the quiet days of early fall, head to the sunny side of the pass to explore Suttle Lake and its little brother, Scout Lake. If the wind comes up, you may even see a couple of bloggers bounding over the waves in their faithful inflatable. Wave as we go by...

Docks at the resort

View from the U-boat

Black Butte

Getting choppy

Mt. Washington background, remains of the B&B Complex Fire foreground

You thought we were kidding about the breakers, didntcha?

A relatively new sport, wing foiling involves a hydrofoil on a SUP board, propelled by a
hand-held kite. Ideally, the board moves above the water, as seen here.

Finding refuge at quiet Scout Lake

Pick your lake and plan your trip, we'll see you there!