Mt. Jefferson Without the Crowds

Marion Lake. Hunt's Cove. Pamelia Lake. Jefferson Park. The Jefferson Wilderness is justly famous for its beautiful hikes and amazing scenery, and its proximity to Highway 22 brings crowds of hikers jostling for camping space; in fact, hiking to Pamelia Lake now requires a permit, and camping at Jefferson Park is restricted to specific sites which are designated with wooden posts.

Several years ago, we were foolish enough to venture into this area in search of a quiet place to camp. We asked for advice at the Detroit Ranger Station. After puzzling a bit, the ranger pointed to a spot on the map. "Go here," he said, and we did. We found our own unnamed lake, one that doesn't even appear on many maps. We saw no one the entire time. It was quiet, the kind of quiet that presses on your eardrums. At one point, we heard a great ruckus and hurried to see what the noise was about, only to find that it was a medium-sized frog climbing onto a rock. All of this with a moderate hike from a well-marked trailhead at the end of a paved road. Sound too good to be true? Welcome to Pine Ridge Trail.

This unassuming little trail may not be as well-known as some in the area, but it offers several options for a variety of hikes. Take your kids on their first backpacking trip and camp at peaceful Temple Lake. Climb Marion Mountain and savor the panoramic views. Use the trail as an alternate route to Marion Lake, or continue into the Eight Lakes Basin for a longer trip. Just be aware that parts of the trail are typical lushly wooded Cascades forest, while other parts fell prey to the B and B Complex Fires of 2003. The burned areas are healing and worth hiking through, but warm days make for hot, dusty hiking, so bring plenty of water. As always, bring a map and compass and know how to use them. One snow-bent evergreen looks very much like all the others, so it's important to keep track of your location.

To find the trailhead, take Highway 22 (the North Santiam Pass) 26 miles past Detroit and turn left onto Forest Road 2261 (Twin Meadows Road), which leads to Camp Pioneer. Coming out Highway 20 (the South Santiam), take Highway 22 toward Detroit; FR 2261 is past the Big Meadows Horse Camp turnoff, but before Marion Forks.

The forest road climbs for five narrow, winding, but paved miles to the Boy Scout camp. Just past the camp, the road turns to gravel and becomes a small parking lot. Sometimes the cars are packed into every corner here, other times yours will be the only vehicle.

Temple Lake

The trail passes noisy Camp Pioneer and leads one quarter mile to the wilderness boundary, where the path splits. The trail to the right is part of the Turpentine Loop; our route is to the left. This section is well-maintained and very pretty, winding through the shady woods. Watch alongside the trail for wildflowers and huckleberries; both abound in this fertile soil. About two miles in look for a side trail downhill to Temple Lake, perfect for a picnic or a family overnighter. The tranquil lake lies in a forested basin with the tip of Mt. Jefferson peeking over the trees to the north. If you do camp here, or anywhere else in this area, do hang your food and take the usual bear precautions.

Summit of Marion Mountain with Marion Lake behind

Three-Fingered Jack

After the junction with Temple Lake Trail, the path gradually becomes less maintained. This is where you have your first taste of the B and B fire, passing in and out of untouched forest and burned areas. As always in a burn, expect some downed trees across the trail from time to time. This trail is just popular enough, though, that efforts are made to keep it clear, so it's usually easy to get around any logs. Listen for the squeak-toy cry of pikas as you walk near rock piles. About three miles in, watch on your right for the trail up Marion Mountain, not to be confused with nearby rugged Marion Peak; the latter has no hiking trails and is best left to climbers. The Marion Mountain trail climbs steadily for 0.8 mile to a rocky summit. The footing is loose and dusty at times, but this detour is well worth the effort. When the trail unravels at a campsite, take a small path to the left to find the viewpoint; here you will see Mt. Jefferson to the north, the summit of Black Butte to the east, and Three Fingered Jack and the Three Sisters to the southeast. Lakes are scattered over the landscape below, including Marion Lake to the north. There are several places to set up a small tent here, and this would be a perfect spot to watch a sunrise; there are no water sources this high up, though, so be sure to bring enough with you.

Unnamed lake with Marion Mountain behind

Return to Pine Ridge Trail where you can go back the way you came, continue to Marion Lake, or head into the Eight Lakes Basin. The path now becomes a bit rougher, with more rocks and downed trees, but it never becomes difficult for hikers, and seasoned trail horses will be able to make their way. When the trail splits, the left-hand path leads downhill to the western shore of beautiful Marion Lake. The right-hand trail leads into the Eight Lakes Basin. This is the Blue Lake Trail, and if you take this route you will soon see a small, unnamed lake on your right. This basin was, in fact, rather inaccurately named; it is generously dotted with many small lakes of varying sizes. Some are trailside, but others require a concerted effort to access. Use caution when trying to reach the latter; you are now in the depths of the B and B burn, with uncertain footing and unstable trees. Most of the trailside lakes have campable spots. While this once-popular area bears the scars of its fiery history, hikers and equestrians are returning as flowers, bushes, and saplings soften the harsh landscape.

As for our tiny, unnamed lake, its rather informal trail has grown faint over the years and it's now much harder to find. Still, sharp eyes may spot an old path on the right, beside a creek crossing before the Temple Lake junction. The trail plays hide-and-seek through downed timber and patchy brush, but the quiet pond waits for those who discover it. Lakes abound in this wilderness, some of them insignificant enough to be ignored by the makers of maps. Bring a compass and your best topo; perhaps you will find a place to call your own.

Temple Lake with Mt. Jefferson

Tarn beside the trail to Marion Mountain

Fireweed in the B&B Burn

Wild Huckleberry

A final view from Marion Mountain

Sparks Lake

The  Cascade Lakes Highway sweeps travelers out of the busy town of Bend into the rugged eastern Cascades. This volcanic landscape is filled with lakes, peaks, meadows, and campgrounds and has hundreds of miles of trails connecting them all.

Climb out of town for about 25 scenic miles on the well-paved highway and you will see, spread out to your left, what appears to be a wide, flooded meadow. This is the picturesque and popular Sparks Lake, and you just drove past the access road. To find the main part of the lake, don't miss the left turn onto Forest Road 46-400, a lumpy but well-marked gravel road that is fine for passenger cars if one drives slowly and carefully. Pass Soda Creek Campground, which is currently closed and is nowhere near the lake anyway. Continue for over a mile to find the day-use area. If you are hoping to spend the night (highly recommended), start watching along both sides of the road once it drops towards the lake. There are many dispersed (read: primitive) sites; of course, the pull-in and walk-in sites on the right are near the water and are in higher demand. The left side of the road offers sites as well, though, and some are quite pretty and private. Just bring plenty of drinking water; this is hot, dusty country. Note that there is no camping near the day-use area.

Parking around Sparks Lake does require a day-use fee or a Northwest Forest Pass, but it's well worth the price. The broad, shallow lake covers roughly 370 acres, with another 360 acres of wetland; these figures are approximate, as lake levels drop quickly as summer progresses. The area is known for both its fly fishing and its birding. Trails wind through the pine forest and along the lake, and birders can walk (cautiously) through the edges of the wetlands. South Sister, Broken Top, and Mt. Bachelor punctuate the skyline. Paddlers converge with canoes, kayaks, inflatables, and paddleboards. Families gather to picnic, camp, and swim during the long, hot central Oregon summer days.

Boaters should be aware that much of the lake becomes very shallow by mid-summer, depending on the year's snowpack. When putting in at the day-use boat ramp, take the left arm to find deeper water and explore weirdly sculptural lava formations. Boats with shallow drafts and flat bottoms, such as canoes, will be able to explore more of the lake, but boating options diminish dramatically as the summer progresses. Those willing to pack their gear in will discover several wonderful boat-in campsites along the lake's edge; most of these are to the left of the day-use area.

This oasis in a rugged landscape holds a variety of wildlife, particularly shorebirds. Western meadowlarks (Oregon's state bird) and a host of songbirds also flourish here. If you are lucky enough to be able to spend the night, you may hear the eerie cry of sandhill cranes as you settle into your sleeping bag beneath the glittering desert sky.

The lakes's day-use area offers one of the best accessible hiking trails in the state: the Ray Atkeson Loop Trail. This wheelchair-friendly paved path passes along lava features and beside the water, and it's a perfect hike for kids. Some of the best views of the lake are from this trail, so be sure to bring your camera. More hiking is available where an unpaved section of the trail continues into the forest, and a few primitive campsites may be found along the path here.



The south pool of Sparks Lake can be a peaceful respite from the crowds. Boatable only during the highest water levels, the marsh is a haven for the more timid wildlife. This pool once had its own busy campground. To find it, drive past the lake and watch on your left for the old access road, now blocked with boulders. Park off of the highway and take the five-minute walk to several primitive sites nestled under the trees. Mt. Bachelor rises silently above the tranquil marsh; you may even have the campground to yourself.


Sparks Lake is no secret; tourists from near and far flock here every summer weekend, and folks from Bend drive up to join them. It's popular for good reason, though, and the lake's size ensures that the crowds are able to spread out. Make the journey, brave the rough road, and explore Sparks Lake. Bring a camera. Bring something that floats, or bring a wheelchair. The lake is waiting, mirrorlike on a craggy mountainside under the central Oregon sun.

These folks brought an extra kayak for their camping gear

The South Pool

The Gorge/Wapinitia Loop, Part Three: Maupin and the Wapinitia Highway

Highway 197 is a long, lonely drive through desert country, but in the small town of Maupin the road briefly drops into the wild and beautiful Deschutes River Canyon. Named for pioneer Howard Maupin, this area was settled in the late 1800s around a ferry across the Deschutes. Now the ferry is long gone and a modern bridge crosses the wild river. Maupin is famous as a rafting town, and several local outfitters offer whitewater runs for those who don't have their own gear. This section of the river is also a popular place for fly fishing, and wildlife abounds in the steep canyon. The snowmelt-fed water rushes briskly along, clear and cold under the towering rock cliffs.

James Hill's west bank tracks visible on the far side of the river

Visitors to the canyon soon notice the railroad running along the west side of the river. This track was the focus of a railroad war  in the early 1900s. Railroad baron James Hill planned his tracks to run along the west bank, while his rival, Edward Harriman, built on the east bank. Scuffles ensued and supplies were sometimes stolen or destroyed, but the real battle was with the hard stone walls of the rugged canyon. After a few years both railroads had trains running, but after Harriman's death in 1909 the companies became more cooperative, eventually combining tracks to reduce maintenance costs. Today, trains still run on the westside track as they have for over a century.

Deschutes River Access Road and Wapinitia Campground

Drive over Maupin's bridge and you will find the Deschutes River Access Road. Maintained by the Bureau of Land Management, this road is actually built on the roadbed of Harriman's eastside railroad. Turn either way to follow the river along the bottom of the canyon; the road is paved for a while before it gives way to washboard and gravel. Several campgrounds are spaced along the access road; river access is excellent, but amenities are simple. Maupin City Park offers more plush camping, and there are a few private campgrounds in the area as well. It is worth noting that campgrounds fill quickly on summer weekends and dispersed camping is not allowed in the canyon; if possible, come during the week or after Labor Day.

Fill your tank at the old-fashioned service station and perhaps pick up an ice cream cone in this friendly little town, then backtrack on 197 for four miles to the Wapinitia Highway (216). For one last abandoned building, follow the highway for six and a half miles and turn left on Reservation Road. One mile off of  216 you will find the remains of tiny Wapinitia, notably an old church building sagging into oblivion. Return to 216, which shoots as straight as an arrow across the wide desert. Then suddenly, at the small town of Pine Grove, the road enters a vast mountain forest. We are now in the Cascades, headed back to Portland.

Twin Lakes

This is an easy drive through beautiful woodlands with the Warm Springs Reservation on the left and the Mt. Hood National Forest on the right. Our small forest byway meets up with larger Highway 26; turn right, toward Portland. There is camping at shallow Frog Lake, a popular family gathering place. If you haven't had enough hiking, turn at Frog Lake but look to your left for the trailhead to Twin Lakes, a beautiful seven-mile round trip that features, not surprisingly, two mountain lakes.

For one last historical stop, turn north at the Highway 35 junction (toward Hood River) and drive about 2.5 miles to Forest Road 3531 (Barlow Pass Sno-Park). Follow this road to find the final resting place of an unknown pioneer woman, as well as a hike along the old Barlow Road. Wagon ruts can be found in the woods across from the grave. Pause in this peaceful place, then return to the busy highway. Drive 35 back to 26 and descend the broad and winding road to Portland, a town that was named by the flip of a coin in 1845 (the other choice was "Boston").

Wagon ruts on the Barlow Trail

Once upon a time, hardy, adventurous people left behind everything they knew to risk an onerous journey to a promised land known as "The Oregon Country." Many never lived to see that land, but others arrived to build new lives in a largely unmapped wilderness. Today we can still find traces of their lives in the Columbia Gorge, in the high desert, and on the Barlow Trail. Native Americans pull salmon out of rapids as they have for centuries, dusty wagon roads wind across rugged countryside, and weather-scarred wooden buildings hold themselves tenuously together, abandoned and empty save for the ghosts of dreams.

Deschutes River and access road

Wapinitia Rapid

Wapinitia Campground

Chicken Spring Canyon, near Wapinitia Campground. I'm sorry to say that no chickens were found springing from this canyon.

Twin Lakes

Pioneer Woman's Grave

Barlow Road wagon ruts, near the Pioneer Woman's Grave

See you out there!