Wednesday, February 14, 2018

The Parks and Public Gardens of...Gresham?


On more than one occasion I have vowed that I would never visit Gresham again; hectic traffic, a bewildering layout, and icy winter storms have left me lost and miserable. Fate had other plans, however, and these days I often find myself beyond Portland's easterlies. Often enough, in fact, that I have learned my way around its erratic streets, and with our photographer as a guide I have even managed to enjoy my time there.

Before Portland grew up against its western border, Gresham was a small town. It has spread out in strip malls and subdivisions, but there is still a dedication to its history, its downtown, and its parks. While they may not be destinations on their own, several parks are well worth a stop when you're in the area. From a tidy Japanese garden to a wild, muddy canyon trail, Gresham offers a variety of ways to get outside when spring fever strikes.


Oregon, the Beaver State, seems to be crisscrossed with Beaver Creeks. The Beaver Creek that flows through the Gresham/Troutdale area wends its way through town and empties into the Sandy River. This modest but energetic waterway has carved its own little canyon, and the steep walls and rapidly changing flow levels have allowed for sparse development. Once a forsaken snarl of blackberry vines, the Beaver Creek Greenway is now a tiny piece of wilderness in the middle of the city. Access is from several spots along SE Beaver Creek Lane off of Troutdale Road, or from Kiku Park. Descend into the canyon on a (probably muddy) footpath and explore along the creek on a network of short trails. The sounds of the city quickly disappear, the stream-sculpted walls rise on either side, and the trees arch overhead. This pocket of nature provides a home for wildlife, and an ongoing project is improving fish habitat, as well. While in the bottom of the canyon, watch for traces of the high water mark; this stream can pack a punch after a rainfall. Use caution if you decide to try the doubtful footbridge, which dangles its way precariously above the energetic water.

If the kids are bored with the idea of visiting an urban creek, Gresham offers two small parks with them in mind. Red Sunset Park is just off of NE Hogan on NE Red Sunset Drive (which, in true Gresham style, continues as NE 23rd Street on the other side of Hogan). At 14 acres, this park has plenty of open space and an excellent play structure. There is also a good-sized duck pond, well-attended by ducks and geese of all sorts. If rain blows in, watch their antics from from the shelter of a waterside gazebo.

If you and the kids find yourself in Gresham between May and September, the Arts Plaza in the heart of downtown (401 NE Second Street) is a must-see. Not for the sculpture installation, but for the popular Children's Fountain, which is actually two fountains designed just for children to play in. An updated, urban version of the classic pastime of running through the sprinklers, this is sure to stop the whining from the back seat for awhile.

Only a few short blocks from the Arts Plaza, Gresham's Main City Park has something for everyone, even the family pooch, in its 21.6 acres. Find it at 219 S Main Avenue. The northeast corner holds a popular, 5,710-square-foot skatepark; this park is designed for all skill levels, and beginners can learn their moves during the "slow skate" from 9-11:00 on weekends and holidays. Near the skate park, stop by the Gresham Heroes Memorial, built to honor those who have served in the military, fire, and police services.While at the central parking lot note the rain gardens, installed as an attractive way of managing water runoff. You will also find an off-leash area for dogs and a playground, as well as picnic tables and walking paths. Johnson Creek winds along the edge of the grounds, and a paved pathway leads to the peaceful Gresham Pioneer Cemetery, established in 1851, as well as two other cemeteries.

The real gem of this park, however, is Tsuru Island, a tiny Asian retreat in the middle of the city. Built by local Japanese farmers and dedicated to the city in 1975, the garden declined into a disused jungle by the 2000s. Its rebirth began in 2011, when a devoted group of volunteers revived and redesigned the garden. Old park bridges were upcycled into benches where visitors can sit and admire the views. Irrigation and electricity were installed. After over 8000 hours of donated labor, Tsuru (Crane) Island reopened to visitors in 2014. Located on a seasonal island in Johnson Creek, the garden is reached by a stunning new bridge built of purpleheart. At only three-fourths of an acre, this little oasis is a visual lesson in skilled garden design; its "good bones" make it worth visiting even in the dead of winter. Lovingly maintained by volunteers, it appears that this garden will remain beautiful for future generations, barring damage from beavers and human vandals.



Before we leave this park and return to Gresham traffic, there is one more feature to be explored. At the southern end of the park, near the central parking lot, you will find access to the Springwater Corridor. While this paved, converted railroad bed has long been a popular walking and biking path for Portlanders, its recent history has been somewhat checkered. Not so the Gresham-to-Boring section; go through the artistic gateway and turn left. You will quickly find yourself paralleling Johnson Creek as you head out through thinning suburbia into the country. Watch on your left for the Columbia Brick Works, Oregon's oldest operating brick factory. Sharp eyes will spot crumbling piles of old bricks in the undergrowth alongside the trail. It's a fairly level 5.7-mile trip from the park to Boring, or turn around at any point along the way. Early-morning walkers and cyclists will have a better chance of seeing some of the wildlife that frequents the area as the landscape opens into fields and forests. This is a perfect opportunity for anyone with feet or wheels to escape the bustle of the city for awhile.

So if fate takes you to Gresham, don't miss these lovely spots. Take a good map and maybe a GPS. You'll be fine. You might even have a good time.

Beaver Creek Greenway
Doubtful bridge in the Greenway. The bridge is still available for public use, but caution is advised.
Be sure to keep an eye on the high water mark!
Red Sunset Park


Gresham Arts Plaza

Gresham Heroes Memorial
Pioneer Cemetery
Main City Park and entrance to Tsuru Island
Onto the Island!






Watch for the unique, moss-covered turtle rock near the far end of the island









Entrance to the park from the Springwater Trail
Abandoned bricks outside the Columbia Brick Works


See you in Gresham!

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

The Lakes of Florence, Part Two

Cleawox Lake
Christmas and New Years have come and gone, and in western Oregon the time of cold mud has settled in. These authors' thoughts now turn to car camping, and the Oregon coast is calling out to us. It's time to pack up the thermal underwear, dry firewood, and extra sleeping bags and head to Florence.

In Part One of this series, we explored the lakes north of this central-coast town. Now it's time to head south, over the Siuslaw bridge and down the coast. Pass through Dunes City (really just South Florence) to the intersection with Canary Road. A right turn here will take you to Honeyman State Park. While we have covered this popular park in a previous post, it provides year-round activities and arguably the best car camping on this stretch of Highway 101. The yurts and RV sites offer welcome shelter from winter storms, and tent camping is relatively easy to find here in the off-season. Long, beautiful Cleawox Lake can be paddled any time of the year, or try your luck with the stocked rainbow trout. There are hiking trails and dune access for walkers, as well as ATV access for much of the year.

Woahink lake
On the other side of 101, Canary Road leads to Woahink Lake, which, like many coastal lakes, is shaped like a bug splattered on a windshield. This crystal-clear, 800-acre lake can be accessed on the north end from a pullout on the right side of Canary Road; look for a simple put-in and a trail to a tiny, lovely lakeside beach. This is a perfect area for paddle sports, as the lake's northern arms provide hours of quiet exploration. The main part of the lake attracts motorboats and sailing craft; an expansive, grassy park with an excellent boat ramp is just a bit further down the road. This park also offers a covered picnic area, wide lawns for outdoor games, and even a small, wind-sheltered swimming beach. The deep, cool water of the lake is rumored to hold especially large yellow perch, as well as trout, largemouth bass, and even steelhead and coho salmon. While many anglers take advantage of the park's accommodating banks, the deeper water (over 70 feet in some places) is further out, so a boat can be an advantage.

Siltcoos Lake
Tyee Campground and Siltcoos River
Siltcoos River
Back on 101, drive south along Woahink's western bank toward the Big One: Siltcoos Lake. At over 3000 acres, this is the largest lake on Oregon's coast; however, unlike neighboring Woahink, it's quite shallow. At an average depth of 11 feet, this is one of the best warmwater fisheries in the state, but cutthroat and rainbow trout are also caught here, as well as a few coho salmon. Motorboats are helpful, as wind is often a major factor on this wide, shallow body of water. This is another bug-splatter-shaped lake, with a few different access points. The Westlake area has a good boat ramp and plentiful parking (fee charged); watch on your right just after the turn off of 101 for tiny Tyee Campground, nestled between the busy highway and a residential neighborhood. Despite its less-than-ideal location and tendency to randomly close, this simple facility is prized for its access to the three-mile-long Siltcoos River, a designated water trail. Paddle upriver to access the lake and a small marina. There is more riverside camping a bit further down the highway at the Siltcoos Recreational Area, but be aware of river flows in the winter and early spring months. The scenic lower Siltcoos harbors many snags which can trap and overturn unwary paddlers at high flow. If wind and water are a bit rough for boating, hike the four-and-a-half-mile loop trail to the lake; the trailhead is found across Highway 101 from the Recreational Area turnoff. This winding, wooded path makes a pleasant stop along the way, and mountain bikers will love the somewhat challenging root-crossed singletrack. Once beside the lake, you will find a few peaceful campsites scattered in the woods; these are only accessible from the trail or the lake.

Carter Lake
Carter Dunes Trail
At this point we are leaving the Florence/Dunes City area, but there is one more lake to be explored. On the west side of Highway 101, Carter Lake lies in a fold of the dunes. This long, thin lake is often less windy than its more expansive neighbors. Even though it only covers 28 acres, it's a scenic place to paddle and very popular with families and local trout fishermen. Carter Lake Campground is one of our favorites, but it is only open during the summer months. A variety of sites can be found here, but the RV sites have no electricity supplied. The very best tent sites are right beside the lake; look for pullouts alongside the campground road to locate these. There is also a simple swimming area and access to the Carter Dunes Trail, which leads for three-fourths of a mile through forests and dunes to an unfrequented beach (be prepared for some seasonal flooding of the trail). If the campground is closed, park in the lot just before the gate and take Taylor Dunes Trail. The first half-mile of this sandy forest path is accessible for most people with mobility issues, and well-placed benches allow for peaceful bird-watching stops. For those able to continue, the trail meets up with Carter Dunes Trail and continues to the beach. To access Carter Lake when the campground is closed, a right turn just past the campground leads to the boat ramp, which, at this writing, is fee-free. Paddle the lake, or join the folks fishing from the bank beside the small ramp.

Oregon's beaches rarely experience ice and snow, and weather between the famous coastal storms can be surprisingly pleasant. Check forecasts before you leave, bring wool, microfiber, and rain gear, and be prepared for sudden changes. Winter camping on the coast can be fun with a little preparation. See you on the water, or on a muddy trail!





Cleawox lake





Woahink Lake














Put-in on arm of Woahink Lake












Tyee Campground






Carter Lake





Bundle up, grab your boats, and we'll see you out there!