Thursday, September 12, 2024

Meeting the Metolius, Part I: The Headwaters and Camp Sherman

Born fully-formed from a series of springs at the base of Black Butte, the Metolius River flows at a rate of 50,000 gallons per minute at its headwaters, steadily gathering more volume from springs and creeks on its way to meet with Lake Billy Chinook. This 29-mile river is renowned for its scenery and its fly-fishing, particularly the upper 11.5 miles; the lower river borders tribal land in a wild, remote series of canyons. Sacred to local tribes and protected by the National Wild and Scenic River Act, this unique river is indeed a special place.

To experience the Metolius, one should begin at the beginning. Take Road 14 north from Highway 20/126 (about 100 miles from Salem, or 10 miles from Sisters) and look for the well-marked turn toward the Head of the Metolius. An easy, quarter-mile round trip walk on a paved path through the pines leads to the origin of the river, partially concealed in the brush, flowing quickly out through meadow and forest. 

Backtrack, then turn towards the tiny town of Camp Sherman, developed over 100 years ago as a place for farmers from the east side to bring their families for camping, hiking, and fishing. The store was first opened in 1916, and the present building dates from 1923. This "little bit of everything" shop is a fun place to snoop around, looking for things you might have forgotten or may decide you need. The area's post office is housed at the other end of the building. 

Park across the street at the fish viewing platform to take advantage of an easy, level 2.2-mile loop hike along the river. Cross the bridge to find a path on the west riverbank and walk downstream past a series of charming cabins. Meadows and ponderosa pines lie to the left. This section of the river spreads out and hurries smoothly along, talking quietly to itself. Bird song, almost canary-like, from the river gives away the location of an American dipper (water ouzel). Look for a greyish little bird that could be an especially sturdy blackbird; it will probably be standing on a rock in the river, bobbing its tail. Until it calmly walks under the water for its next aquatic meal.

Continue along the path to Allingham Bridge. This area is a favorite among anglers (check regulations; at this writing, fishing is catch-and-release with barbless hooks, and much of the river is fly-fishing only). Cross the bridge to find the return path. There are two campgrounds here, Smiling River and Allingham (as with all of the campgrounds in this popular area, reservations are highly recommended). As you walk back, the Green Ridge fault rises to the left, cloaked with pine trees. Boggy areas of the riverbank are crossed by boardwalks through the lush growth shortly before reaching Camp Sherman Campground. Note the circular shelter complete with fireplace and woodstoves; this is one of three such shelters originally built here in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. These shelters were a great improvement for campers of the era, when there were no RVs or paved roads and equipment was whatever campers could bring from home. Continue along the riverside path to your car.

This quiet, somehow set-apart place hasn't changed much in over 140 years, since those first farmers relaxed here with their kids. Before that, native people cherished the river for thousands of years, naming it for the light-colored Chinook salmon they caught here. And always, unfailingly the water pushes up through the earth, sparkling in the sun and rushing by the dipper where she sits on her favorite rock, singing to the river.

Trail to the headwaters
Headwaters through the bushes
Snowberry, rose hips, and ponderosa pine
Farther down the river




The photographer becomes the photographed


Camp Sherman Store



Camp Sherman bridge and fish viewing platform

Black butte peeking up above the Metolius








The photographer failing to catch fish
No fish were harmed in the making of this blog post
See you for Part 2!


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